The only way to do something that’s super scary,
and maybe, Johnny,
you can, you know,
attest to this too, is like,
you kind of have to pass through the veil of fear first before you can
like, do anything else.
Yeah, in big waves,
you’re sitting in the channel and you see these 50,
60 foot waves coming in. And the real scariest is the.
The movement it has, the speed at which it’s traveling.
It’s just this train of unstoppable force,
you know?
And in order to get out there and put yourself where you need to be,
where you might get caught inside by a giant wave,
you have to be willing to, like,
let go enough where, like,
you can accept the fear, let it go through you.
And I’m maybe 5 foot 8 on land,
but when I get through that veil,
I feel 6 foot six. You have the fear,
but you’re not letting it, like,
control you. You’re just using it as like, a tool.