welcome to more first ascent climbing
and day one of what I’m calling bull in a razor box
and it gets its name
for the razor thin choss I had to remove
the sharp crimps you have to use
and the two boulders on the side that are boxing you in
but the main problem we’re gonna have with this boulder
is the holds on the face are really bad
there are almost no foot options
and you have a lot of dab potential on either side of you
and I’m gonna start out trying to do the sit start
by grabbing this really low undercling
but I could not establish onto my feet
but then I’m gonna realise
there’s a right hand side pull that I completely missed
and chalk that up
and this is gonna allow me to establish onto the climb
go to this left hand crimp
and I was attempting to use this kind of side pull cobble crimp
but it’s gonna break on me right here
and ultimately what this meant is I was gonna have to keep my right hand low on the start hold
and I’m gonna try a bit of foot trickery here
but I’m quickly gonna realise
that there’s gonna be a full on dyno to the hold above
and it is not easy
there’s two jugs to choose from here
the right is the better of the holds
but it functions more as a crimp when you grab it
and then the left is a kind of side pull slot that is really hard to hit
and I knew this thing was gonna require a little bit of grit
so the shirt had to come off
but here’s the holds we’re dealing with
this is the starting right hand side pull
and then we have the almost non existent left hand
yeah
and here are the feet
our left foot is painfully jammed sideways in this crack
and our right foot is pasted against this awkward slab
and then this is the utterly brutal left hand crimp we’re going to
so sharp and so difficult to hold
and I would play around with a few other holds to try to get to the holds above
but ultimately I would end up using the holds that I just showed y’all
I’ll leave y’all with the rest of my process and progress (or lack thereof)
in trying to hit this dyno