Let’s talk about one very commonly overlooked detail that can make your car much faster on the track. And that’s your brake bias, meaning how strong your front brakes are compared to the rear. Now, some of you may have already lost interest because this sounds like a complicated thing to change on your car, but it’s really not. You just want a different kind of brake pad in the front versus the rear. Now, the reason that you may want to be adjusting your brake bias is because our cars that we bring to the track are usually not stock. And cars are usually designed from the factory to break the safest and fastest way in a straight line. On your OEM car, meaning every part is OEM. But even some of the simplest changes could require you to change your brake bias to achieve optimal braking performance, meaning braking the quickest. Now, the premise of this whole thing is that you want to achieve maximum static friction between the front and rear tires while your car is braking. If either the fronts or rears lock up first, bad things will happen and you will break slower. If the fronts lock up first, you’re just going to go in a straight line and be unable to turn while braking. And if the rears lock up first, you’re probably going to spin out. So you wanna achieve an equal breaking balance so that you stop the quickest. So some things You should know is that when your car breaks, it nose dives forward, and you transfer a lot of your weight forward in the car because your center of gravity is not sitting down here, it’s sitting up here. So when your car nose dives, the center of gravity moves forward. So let’s say your car is like 57% front weight. It might actually be a 62% front weight while you’re braking. Now hopefully your manufacturer got this braking balance right on your stock car. So let’s talk about the specific modifications you may have made that require you to change your braking balance. First off is your tires. If you got stickier tires, not even talking about tire with just the compound. If you got stickier tires, your car is going to nose dive more and transfer more weight forward. So for this example, you’d want to move your brake bias forward. Now, yes, if you also widen your front tires a lot more than you widen your rear tires, you’re also going to want more of a forward front bias. Another example is your suspension. If you’ve significantly increased your front spring rates, your car is not going to nose dive as much. So you’re going to keep more of that pressure on your rear, which means you want to bring the brake bias a little bit backwards. Okay, now let’s talk about arrow. Usually your arrow setup should be fairly balanced so that you have kind of The same balance as your weight distribution. But let’s say you have a larger rear wing. That creates more downforce than your front splitter or any front arrow. Then you’re gonna want more of a brake balance towards the rear, because you have more weight on the rear. Now, one last example. Let’s say you’ve done a lot of weight reduction to your car, and you removed more weight from the rear than you removed from the front, which is a very common occurrence in which I did to my car. This is another example that’s gonna Wanna make you bring your brake balance forward. Now, that covers a lot of the modifications that may cause you to change your braking balance. But you could also just change it due to your preference and driving style. And more importantly, based off of how your car actually feels on the track and what you notice while you’re braking. If you feel like the car wants to rotate way too much during turn in braking on the track, then you probably want to bring that brake bias A little bit farther forward. That’s also usually the safer option so that you don’t spin out. But then again, if you feel like the car is always just locking up in the front when you’re going into turns, and you maybe you want some more rotation going into the turns, then you want to bring that brake bias a little bit farther back. Lately I felt like my car rotates too much, under breaking, which you can see in the clip right here. And I have to replace my front pads anyways. Because I kind of destroyed my calipers and pads. Due to my own neglect and lack of taking care of them. It’s funny because my rear caliper pads and rotors are, like, completely untouched. And I’ve been using those for a very long time. The car is just so front weighted. But I’m going to be swapping to endless MX. Eighty seven pads in the front versus the 72 is that I had and still run in the rear. So the friction coefficient is gonna go up from point four seven to point four nine. And we’ll see how the car does in the track next time.