What’s up, everybody? To poets here. And when it comes to PCs, there’s always more that you can do, like more storage, more RAM, faster RAM, faster CPUs, better cooling. So this system right here is has been my main system. This is a 13,900 KS. So it’s the I 9 processor, the special bind processor that Intel makes. And so it does hit 6 gigahertz out the bar. Currently, I have a thermal electric cooler on there, which is sub ambient cooling. So it’s actually putting basically electricity through some ceramic tech plates to suck the heat away from the top of the IHS of this 13,900 KS processor. With that, I’ve gotten this down to 0 degrees Celsius. It’s very fun for overclocking. It’s not really meant for benching though. You can’t use a thermal electric cooler of this nature for long term. I guess high stress workloads for gaming’s perfectly fine, but for video editing, like longs rendering sessions, it does still over reheat.
So what I want to do now is break the processor. Long story short. So we’re going to delete it. We’re gonna use Ek’s new kit that actually is meant for deleted processors.
This is going to be a bit different from the thermoelectric cooler because the thermal electric cooler does take wattage that’s like electricity. So I actually have two power supply units in this, like two 12 watt 80 plus gold power supply units, because I also have it split between two different uninterruptable power spell units underneath the desk right here to split the load because those only go up to 900 Watts each. There are 15 VAs. So basically, if I had the whole system plugged into just one UPS unit, the alarms are got off because it can’t sustain that type of wattage. So in other words, this thing is hitting well over 1,000 Watts because of the thermal electric cooler, because of the Rtics 40,90 right here. That’s, you know, standing upright like that. And of course, the 13,900 KS and of course the storage, the water cooling, all that stuff. So yeah, that’s sitting over 1,000 Watts used when you do direct dye cooling. It’s just that it’s the water cooler directly on the dye. There’s no IHS. So we’re gonna rip that off carefully. Hopefully not destroy the 13900 Chaos processor in the in that whole process of doing it. But Ek does include a delayed kit to make it a bit safer instead of just prying it off or throwing it in an oven like the old school methods that we used to use for d letting. Now this one is a little bit more precise. So let’s get to it. Let’s tear this apart, drain it and tear off the CPU and see what happens. Wish me luck. This was definitely dumb heavy. So the case is the Leanly 11 Dynamic. Evo definitely enjoyed using this case this whole time. And you’ll notice that this MSI R t X FORTY NINETY, the Gaming X trio does fit snugly with a little bit of room to spare right here. And I do have two Display Port cables plugged in here and they actually wrap through here. And then that’s where you have the cables to go to your monitors. So you kind of have to plan that in advance because this is not the easiest thing to do. Having maybe a 90 degree adapter is a great idea as well. I didn’t need that, luckily with these cables, but it was a snug fit with these cables. You also see the two 12 watt 80 plus gold power supply units. These are by thermal take. They did an excellent job. And I actually did a whole video showing how I have two PSU plugged into one motherboard. So go ahead and check that video out. I’ll put a link in the description.
When you’re building a water cool PC, one of the major things you want to do is make sure you understand how you’re going to drain it. This is the Ek Quantum Kinetic D5 pump, and this is what I’m using as the drain valve. So this is ZMT tubing I have going around to the backside. I love ZMT because it’s nice and flexible, very durable and prevents a lot of permeation. So basically the fluids not evaporating through the tubing. This is some, some basically some my favorite tubing altogether by EKWB or any company. So I highly recommend it, especially for workstation builds. So here you can see the drain valve actually coming through over here. This is very nice and practical for how I built this.
Now this makes it easy for me to drain because all I have to do is unwrap this. It hangs down. It becomes the lowest point of the system. And basically most of the fluid easily just drains out in one fatal swoop. My fluid of choice has been the Goat Chiller Premix. This is actually liquid graphene, and it does drop temperatures by about 2 to 3 degrees Celsius. And all of my systems, I’ve used it in about three or four builds so far, almost two years, and I’ve been extremely happy with it. So no gunky buildup or anything. It’s basically just perfect. And so now on to the fun part.
What we’re gonna do is we’re gonna open this up right here to allow for air to get into the system so that it easily drains out from the rear. So we have our tubing going into the bucket right here. I’m going to take off this cap and then open up the valve. The cap is off. That’s what it looks like. Just simply screws off. And then we have the drain valve. So we’re gonna see if I can do this one handed focus man. And yep, it’s black as night.
So now I actually have to allow for error to go into the system. That’s why not a lot of it has come out yet. And we do that, by doing this, we go boom. Very fun. To get the remainder of the fluid out of the entire system, all I had to do here is disconnect this, which was right here, and attach a tube and you can add a pump to this or just blow right into it so it force the rest of the fluid out through the drain valve. Ooi, goodness. And so you can see with a system with a 3/60, kind of a thick boy radiator up top and then a thinner 360 red down below. This is roughly how much fluid is in the system. So stick for scale. There we go. This fluid has been absolutely great. And I’m actually going to reuse it. So we’re gonna save it. So we’re gonna take a break right here.
We did take out the Rtics 40,90, the gaming X trio by MSI from the system. Yes, it does fit very nicely inside of the 11 dynamic Evo and it’ll fit even better in the Evo XL that just came out.
Also took out the Kingston Fury DDR five RAM, 6,000 megatransfers. So next step is just going to be to take out the pump so I can more easily take off the tech cooler and therefore remove the 13,900 KS processor and begin the d lid process that is going to be with this tool right here, the d lid tool by EKWB. So looking forward to, so stay tuned.